Surfing Lessons

Caught my first wave today, woohoo!

1) My 2nd toe on my left foot inexplicably goes numb, still works, just loses all circulation – weird.
2) The body gets used to being unstable on the board when paddling/swimming. The mind needs to stop freaking out.
3)Being a wave slut is more fun, and tiring, than being selective.
4)It's ok not to pop up without your hands at first! Keep arms back farther.
5)Swimming on a board is way different than swimming with legs.
6)Timing just as important as balance. Can't get in the wave, can't get up.
7)Yeah, don't hold the board in front of you, like they warn you not to. Chinwhack.
8)Yogic saltwater flushes for the nasal cavities are not necessary, just take a few spills underwater.
9)Sea lions are cooler up close in the water. They really check you out.
10)I need a longer board. 8'2" not quite enough for me. But my 4:3 wetsuit was perfectly warm, although the loose threading gave me a lovely neck rash.