Surf Lesson 3

1) Paddling 101: dig deep, center forward on board, legs in
2) First duck & roll, fun!
3) Lots of great white sharks 300 yards from where we surf – awesome!
4) Don't stay up late, drink too much wine and cider, eat chocolate and go surfing early next morning after driving winding roads — nauseous
5) Long boards rule! Short boards for steep-faced waves
6) Stood up on a tall wave for the first time – super scary to brain, no actual danger
7) Took a few extra risks and wave beatings, just to see what they felt like
8) Peeing in a wetsuit: feels so right it can't be wrong : )